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Editor’s note: in May, 2016, the Rev. Dr. Cynthia Wickwire Lundquist of Fredonia had the privilege of visiting the nation of Russia. She travelled with a group organized by the Peacemaking Program of the Presbyterian Church USA. The purpose of the trip was to build stronger relationships between Christians in the United States and Russia so that each group could then, through their witness in their own country, share what they learned about the other with their fellow countrymen and women. Below is part III of her story:

Small Town Living

From St. Petersburg we took an overnight train to Moscow, and then a day train to the small city of Rostov. From Rostov we were driven to the small village (74 residents) of Davydovo where we stayed for two nights. It was made up of small wooden homes set quite far apart from each other and set some distance off the main road, which was dirt. The houses were two story wood frame with lovely, ornate carved eaves and frames around their windows. Landscaping is not a priority. There were no paved driveways, just worn paths in the lawn for their cars. The village was in fact so small that there were no stores, just the houses set off the road. It was somewhat barren but there was a wonderful sense of peacefulness and its own beauty.

A Russian Feast

On our first night we were welcomed to a feast in the home of the parish priest, Father Vladimir of the Russian Orthodox Church. (Russian Orthodox priests are allowed to be married). Father Vladimir’s wife prepared a wonderful meal for us of chicken, three different kinds of fish, 4 kinds of slaw salads, a beet salad, French fries, shrimp chips, and more! Their daughters and the local choir director sang local folk songs for us and then we would sing a song back sharing mainly folk music. Their music was beautiful, but somber in tone and content. There was no question that their lives had been difficult and harsh but this made their warm welcome all the more powerful. By the end of the meal, we were all very full and beginning to dream of our beds when Father Vladimir’s wife appeared with hot tea from the samovar and four desserts. I have never experienced more gracious hospitality than I did that night (nor a longer meal – four hours at least!).

The Russian Orthodox Church

The people of the village were also very welcoming as we joined them at worship. In the Russia Orthodox Church, there are no pews or seats, so that the congregations can stand during the service as a sign of respect to God. There are, however, benches along the wall and we saw both children and older members using the benches at various times through the service. The small choir was marvelous as they chanted the simple music that was part of their tradition. Several times Father Vladimir came out and walked around our group blessing us as he swung his censer and the smoke from the incense wafted up in the air. While we could not understand the homily or the prayers, we were still enriched by the frescoes on the wall. The stories of Jesus and the disciples covered every inch of the walls as is typical of these Russian churches. The iconostasis, a wall decorated with religious icons that separates the congregation from the hidden altar area where the priest leads the prayers, was also beautifully decorated and a moving witness to their faith. I spoke with our group leader and suggested that the reason the Russian Orthodox do not have seats is that if people had seats, they would never the leave the church because the music, art and prayers are so beautiful.

“Nothing” is the same

From Davydovo we went to Smolensk. There we stayed at a Baptist church camp facility while we visited the city and some of the social justice programs of the church. This included a visit to a school for children with special needs. The facility was a little run down but the teachers were very committed to their work. We were impressed with their efforts to have art programs, including dance and theater. We asked some of the teachers about their impressions of Americans and one woman said, “Nothing,” and then broke into a smile. She said, “You are just the same as us, there is no real difference.” We all laughed as we realized the truth of her words.

Coming next week: Invasion and suffering.