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A life of great escapes to Cape Cod

We have just returned from what will probably be our last vacation on Cape Cod. My wife and I are no longer kids and that 570-mile trip we used to make in one day now feels like and is a two day slog.

Over the last 70 years traffic volume getting on and off the Cape has increased exponentially making it possible to spend more of a summer weekend than you might want to get on or off the Cape. There are two vehicular bridges with two narrow lanes in each direction that cross the Cape Cod Canal: the Bourne Bridge that provides access from MA Route 3 and U.S. Route 6 and the Sagamore Bridge providing access from U.S. Route 6 and Interstate 495 via state route 25. Both the Bourne and Sagamore bridges are nearly 90 years old and if current plans to replace them hold true will safely reach the age of 100.

An Army Corps of Engineers report says that “Both bridges are functionally obsolete, require frequent maintenance, and” in a gross understatement says that they, “no longer meet the needs of the traveling public.”

The new Sagamore Bridge is scheduled for completion in 2033 and the Bourne Bridge in 2034. The total cost is projected to be $3.5 billion, which probably really means $6 billion. Both will have six lanes. I first ventured to Cape Cod with my parents and three younger brothers in August 1954. The Thruway wasn’t open in Eastern New York yet and the Massachusetts Turnpike was still several years in the future, so it was a long ride across Eastern New York and all of Massachusetts on U.S. Route 20 to Boston where we picked up MA Route 3 down to the Cape. At some point on that hot and sticky afternoon, keeping in mind that in those days air conditioned cars were a rarity, I began uttering that time honored phrase “are we there yet.”

To shut me up my father told me to look at the sky because the blue color was different due to the ocean’s reflection. I was only nine, so I bought the story. We stayed at a place called “Days Cottages” in the town of Truro just outside of Provincetown. It was a pretty basic place, but it was on the water where we spent a lot of our time. There were 22 identical cottages, each painted white.

In an effort to keep vacationers from entering the wrong unit each was named after a flower like Dahlia, Lilac, Marigold, Wisteria, Clover, and so on. Between 2014 and 2017 20 of the 22 units were sold as condos for $399,000 each making the Day family $8 million richer.

The Days then moved to Florida. Lower taxes, I guess. On the Cape my wife has rented one family home and even an occasional motel but there is one place I love above all of them. It is located in Eastham near the bay and situated in a forest of pitch pines and oak trees. The units were designed in “Mid-Century Modern” style with plenty of glass. However, we never lacked privacy because no unit is visible from another, and the place is always quiet and relaxing.

It’s almost like a hidden village. There is no television or radio provided but it’s great if you are a reader or just want to bask in the silence. There is no air conditioning, making it less than ideal for some in July and August but making it perfect in May, June, September and even October. Over the years We have spent many vacations on the Cape and while in recent years it has become more crowded with heavy traffic it is still a great place to visit. In Eastham on the “Outer Cape” where we have spent most vacations you are close to the ocean beaches of the National Seashore and Eastham Town beaches on the bayside.

When the tide is high the bay reminds me of swimming in Lake Erie with water temperatures in the 70s but with salt added while the ocean beaches are for the more adventurous types and those with wet suits who don’t mind water temperatures of 57 degrees as was the case last week.

I did notice this year that more attention was being paid to sharks than ever before with a shark warning notice posted at First Encounter Beach on the bay. The most plausible reason for the increase in shark sightings are rebounding seal populations, a shark’s favorite meal.

When it comes to dining on the Cape there are many options; fine dining, Chinese, Thai, Korean and of course seafood, grilled, baked, boiled, and broiled. Although my stomach does not, I have an affinity for deep fried seafood, especially oysters and whole belly clams accompanied by fried onion rings and New England clam chowder. Oysters prepared this way are not only a “taste of the sea” but have an added sweetness.

“Whole Belly Fried Clams” are the bold big brother of clam strips which are OK but lack the mucky ocean flavor of whole belly clams.

While I’ve probably made my last trip to the Cape, if you have never been there, you should try it. I’ve made many September trips there and recommend the off season when there is less traffic, restaurants less crowded, the weather still benign and rentals cheaper.

Thomas Kirkpatrick Sr. is a Silver Creek resident. Send comments to editorial@observertoday.com

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